Price: 92 lei
The issue explores how we perceive failure in relation to fashion. In a society that venerates success, few things are as alarming as the prospect of failure. In the fashion business we know this – no venture is ever a misstep. Our marketing executives are kings of spin. With some subtle pulling of the correct strings a crack-up is nothing but an occasion to rise again; what's not to love about a story like that – imagine all the bags it'll shift! On the other hand, though we have figured out how to monetise the failure to belong fashion can still be a failed disguise, much easier to see through than what we imagine.
This issue looks at the many ways in which fashion can fail us, from wardrobe malfunctions, shoplifting and makeover culture to what to wear in Utopia, a lunatic asylum or Roma community. We analyse the failure of fashion criticism, the secret of success and why efforts by the fashion police always backfire.
In addition we have commissioned visual essay by the artist Rinko Kawauchi and a 44-page chapter of narrative interviews examining how the emphasis on business has changed the way we think of creativity in fashion: designer Thom Browne, CEO of the CfDA Steven Kolb, president of the Chambre Syndicale and Puig Ralph Toledano, president of Comme des Garçons Adrian Joffe, fashion reporters Tim Blanks and Nicole Phelps, writer Glenn O'Brien and photographer Tim Walker being just some of those who debate whether, an age where noncommercial culture must fight every day for its right to exist, we have become so risk averse that we have ended up in a creative quagmire.